The Beach House is the kind of place you want to keep a secret, the food so delicious, the location so perfect, the tumbledown shack metamorphosing into top knotch restaurant so of the moment. But judging from the hour and a half wait for a table on a freezing Saturday when no one in their right minds would want to be at the beach, this secret is well and truly out.
What you’re looking at is a shabby beach hut at the top of South Milton Sands, grittily picturesque on the outside, all shared tables and candlelit platters of seafood on the inside.
It’s almost impossible to get a table (you need to book) but once you’re in, it really feels like a victory. Overhead heaters keep the hut warm and cosy and there are staggering panoramic views of the sea. Our rose arrives perfectly chilled and in a bright blue plastic bucket.
The menu specialises in the freshest fish and seafood, cooked simply – whitebait that is fantastically crunchy, mussels in cider and cream, crab linguine, wild local bass with salse verde. There are burgers too and sandwiches like the fish finger club or the mackerel dog – crispy fried fillets with watercress and tartare. This is café food taken up a knotch,
In summer there are tables outside and at night (the restaurant is open until 9 at the weekends) the whole place is lit by natural candlelight. In short it's idyllic, humble yet drawing the crowds on the strength of a knockout location and food that is just as good. It's a bucket list kind of restauarant, that's for sure, just remember to book or you'll end up very disappointed.